TRAVELER'S TASTE

From far away, a taste of home

By Necee Regis, Globe Correspondent  |  November 3, 2004

MARIETTA, Ga. -- Last month I didn't know what Lammingtons were, now I can't stop thinking about them.

Lammingtons, for those not familiar with Australian pastry, are light and airy sponge cakes, cut in chunky squares, dipped in chocolate, and then covered in finely shredded coconut. The Australian Bakery Cafe, overlooking Glover Park, bakes them seven days a week. For some reason the combination of these ingredients and textures is deliriously good.

Owners Mark Allen and Neville Steel were childhood mates from Boort, Victoria. Separated by a family move at age 5, the two rekindled their friendship at a trade school for bakers. After various business ventures in Australia and America, they opened this 2,000-square-foot space in 2001.

The bakery is a hit with both native Georgians and the local Aussie ex-pat community. (The Atlanta Kookaburras, an Australian-rules football club, are big fans.)

"We're the only Aussie bakery on the Southeast coast of America," says Allen. "We ship our meat pies to ex-pats all over the country and supply the Australian embassy in D.C."

They offer 16 varieties of meat pies, including a slightly spicy BBQ chicken, steak and kidney, and curry lamb. The basic Aussie meat pie is savory ground sirloin and seasoned gravy baked in a flaky pastry crust. ("This One's a Bloody Ripa Mate!" says the menu.)

On a recent Saturday, Aussie Greg Henderson, his wife, Dale, and their three children were making their weekly pilgrimage to the bakery from the other side of Atlanta. "We always order the regular meat pies," said Dale. "And we always take Lammingtons when we go."

The Hendersons also come for the Australian products that fill the shelves along one wall, like Billy Tea, Thick Mint Sauce, and Windsor Farm Mushy Peas. They particularly stock up on Vegemite, a concentrated yeast extract, which they like to spread on toast. "It must taste awful," Greg said, when a bystander frowned. "But because you eat it in Australia from the age of 3 months, you can't tell the difference."

The shop, in the oldest building on Marietta's main square, has a casual and relaxed feel. The floors are original wood, the ceiling is extraordinarily high, and a half-dozen tables, near the front windows and out on the street, offer a place to linger with your meat pie and the paper. Two wall-sized digital photos face each other across the room: one of the Sydney Opera House and harbor, the other of Ayers Rock with a kangaroo crossing sign.

There's more to the menu than just meat pies and pastry. There are also several sandwiches, on six varieties of their fresh bread, as well as quiches, croissants, salads, soups, and chili.

But it's hard to pass the glistening pastry case without ordering at least one dessert. In addition to Lammingtons, the menu offers other Australian desserts, like Cherry Ripe (shortbread with maraschino cherries, coconut filling, and chocolate topping), Vanilla Slice (vanilla custard between flaky puff pastry, with an icing topping), and Anzac Cookies (a crunchy sweet oatmeal treat invented during World War II to send to the soldiers overseas).

Australian Bakery Cafe, 48 S. Park Square, Marietta, Ga., 678-797-6222, www.australianbakery.com.